Refresh: Fashion Meets Function

Give haircolor a "flip" this fall/winter season.

by John Simpson

If you're like me, you do your creative best everyday while working behind the chair. Your clients are conservative, and yet crave haircolor that doesn't look like every Betty walking down the street. What can you do for them this fall/winter season that will make them look unique and not flamboyant? "Flip" those high-white blondes into neutral golden blondes with a cool shadow interior design; take that level 7 copper-red and add a new, cool blue-brown hue to give it new life; and shift a deep, luxurious brunette with a cool, blue-red detail! A quick glaze overall will start you on your way to the appropriate tone, while "twisting" their color palette.

Example: Let's say the natural hair is a level 5. After the pre-pigment, try an alkaline formula with a base of level 7 copper-gold mixed equally with a level 6 copper-red, plus 30-volume developer. The mid-shafts could be familiar with a 10-volume formula and more level 7 copper-gold and less level 6 copper-red; while the ends need a 10-volume formula with little-to-none of the level 6 copper-red.

If you choose to add a detail shadow in your favorite interior detail placement (try a diagonal forward placement along the parietal ridge), choose a cool contrast with something like equal parts of a level 6 cool, neutral ash with a level 6 gold plus 10-volume developer, and finish with a glaze in a shear golden hue over the entire head for about 15 minutes This will give a vivid "pop" to the red while giving the blue the cool effect it craves for this cooler time of the year.

In Goldwell speak_let's take the same situation of the natural level 5 with faded copper level 8. Apply Goldwell System Pre-Pigmentation Copper and two parts water to the faded areas. Then, at the new hair zone, utilize Goldwell Topchic, 15 ml 7 KG (copper gold) 15 ml 6KR (copper red) plus 30-volume developer; through the middle-20 ml 7KG, 10 ml 6KG plus 10-volume developer; through the ends 15 ml 7KG plus 10-volume developer. Accent with your favorite detail interior eyelet pattern with Goldwell Topchic 20 ml 6G, 10 ml 6NA (natural ash) plus 10-volume developer. Apply an overlay of Goldwell Colorance, 10 ml 10G, 10 ml 9KG + processing lotion for 15 minutes.

It's always a pleasure and I hope that you enjoyed my color ides! If you want to read more wicked color stories visit me at johncsimpson.com. And if you crave to see and think about color in a different manner. Check out what we have to offer at goldwellnorthamerica.com